The laughter coming from diners in a corner of Kenji Suzuki's restaurant is flowing as effortlessly as the beer. The chatter cuts through the steam drifting from a nabe, or hotpot, in the centre of the table. There is talk of work, and praise for the chicken, vegetables and tofu being transferred to bowls from the bubbling stock.
Their exuberance is unusual, not just because the working week is only a day old, but because every dish is made with produce many Japanese have spent the past 20 months doing everything possible to avoid.
In an age when serious diners insist on knowing the provenance of their food, the example set by Suzuki's restaurant is hard to beat. About 80% of his menu – from perilla-infused pork to daikon pickles and saké - is from Fukushima.